Prada acknowledges “leather sandals” actually 'inspired' by Kolhapuri chappals after GI violation row

Italian luxury fashion house Prada has confirmed that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection features footwear inspired by India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The clarification came after backlash in India over the brand’s failure to initially acknowledge the origin of the design showcased at the Milan Fashion Week. The open-toe leather sandals displayed bore a strong resemblance to Kolhapuris, which are handmade leather sandals crafted by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Kolhapuri chappals were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019, legally protecting their regional identity. Following the Milan show on June 23, concerns were raised by artisan groups and Indian officials who alleged the footwear was presented without credit to Indian craftsmanship. BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of Kolhapuri artisans to meet Maharashtra Deputy Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis and demanded national and international-level action. He said the matter was a violation of the GI Act and Artisan Act and confirmed that a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) is being drafted for the Bombay High Court.

In a written response, Lorenzo Bertelli, Head of Corporate Social Responsibility at Prada Group, stated, “We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.” He addressed the letter to Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA).

Bertelli added that the designs are still in the early stages of development and have not been approved for production. “Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized,” he said. He also noted Prada’s interest in responsible design and stated, “We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities.”

The response followed Gandhi’s letter to Prada, which said the sandals resembled Kolhapuri chappals and lacked any reference to their Indian origin. He requested public acknowledgment, possible collaboration, and fair compensation for artisans. The issue has also brought attention to previous cases where global brands used Indian designs such as Kantha embroidery, Banjara mirror work, and tribal motifs without attribution. Artisan groups have demanded stricter GI enforcement to protect traditional crafts.